Like the nearby Old Quarter of Vietnam’s capital city, Hanoi Railway Station offers a bustling and slightly bewildering environment every day of the week. Arriving on a clammy evening in August with two pre-booked tickets for the Violette Express night train to Lao Cai, we scrutinised the digital screens in search of boarding information.
Hanoi-Lao Cai sleeper trains are one of the most popular and sustainable modes of transport between the capital and the mountain resort of Sapa, situated some 315km to the north and famed for its verdant hills, temperate winter climate and blend of indigenous cultures. We had booked two single beds in a deluxe four-bed cabin for the combined fee of 1.4 million Vietnamese dong, or roughly €25 each.
A train going over a railway bridge in Hanoi, Vietnam. Photograph by David Emrich, Unsplash.
The idea of being rocked to sleep in a deluxe sleeping compartment as the night train weaves its way through the moonlit Vietnamese countryside, before waking to the dawn light over the Hoang Lien Son Mountain Range, held an appeal beyond its green credentials. There is something powerfully evocative about sleeper trains that stirs feelings of romance and intrigue in the souls of all travellers, and explained why, for once, I was feeling as excited about the journey as I was about the destination. But first, we had to find the train…
Navigating the booking process
Hanoi Railway Station is split into terminal A on Le Duan street and terminal B on the adjacent Tran Quy Cap street. Ostensibly the imposing terminal A building serves the Reunification Express line heading south to Ho Chi Minh City, while terminal B serves the northern routes. However, some of the operators on the northbound Hanoi-Lao Cai route have their check-in facilities in terminal A, while others issue e-tickets that no longer require you to check-in and obtain a paper ticket. It is wise to arrive at the station early to clear up any doubts you may have about the process.
While it is possible to purchase tickets for the regular Vietnam Railways carriages from the designated counters in both terminals, most foreign travellers opt to pre-book online tickets for the supposedly higher quality, privately-operated carriages that are primarily marketed at tourists. These carriages are attached to the Vietnam Railways trains but they come with added frills such as comfortable bedding and free snacks and water. They also have limited capacity, which means you are less likely to experience frustrating toilet queues or noisy neighbours seeking to lubricate the overnight journey with cheap cans of Bia Hà Nội.
People boarding the train at a railwaystation in Vietnam. Photograph by Pew Nguyen, Unsplash.
Tickets for the private carriages can be purchased from a wide variety of local and international booking platforms and tour operators. Navigating the web pages of these platforms can be confusing, with prices varying between different service providers, and some local companies proving difficult to verify through online reviews. I was also warned that there are numerous copycat websites designed to appear as if they are the official portals of the train operators. Booking a complete tour package with a trusted operator before arriving in Vietnam would provide travellers with peace of mind and allow them to avoid this head-scratching challenge.
In my case, I’m still unsure whether I booked online directly with the Violette Express train company or a tour operator with a similar name. All my post-booking interactions took place over e-mail and WhatsApp with a friendly, faceless person who identified only as “Mr Hieu”. For future trips, I would likely book through an internationally recognised platform for added security, but the communication and information flow with the mysterious Mr Hieu was smooth and reassuring throughout.
Despite the lingering doubts I had about the legitimacy of the booking when I approached the train 45 minutes before departure as instructed, I had no issues boarding with the e-ticket provided. Although the guards on my carriage spoke no English, they quickly showed me to the correct sleeping cabin after inspecting my ticket and pointed to the bunk beds designated for me and my travelling companion. We removed our backpacks and settled in for the night, curious to see who would be taking the remaining two beds in the cabin.
A sleeper train driving through the Vietnamese country side. Photograph by Etienne Girardet, Unsplash.
Cosy cabins and quiet companions
While our “deluxe” cabin could not be compared to the opulent suites of the Orient Express, it provided a cosy and comfortable environment. There was ample space beneath the lower bunk to store two backpacks, and each bed was provided with a sheet, soft pillow and thin duvet. A table lamp glowed invitingly against the wood-panelled walls, and reading lights were fitted above each individual bunk. I could not locate any USB ports near the beds, but two plug sockets were provided under the table, which was well-stocked with the type of moreish salty snacks I did not want but could not stop eating. A brief venture through the rest of the carriage revealed a western-style toilet and wash basin at the end, both of which remained clean, operational and – thankfully – queue-free throughout the journey.
Back inside our cabin, and a powerful knock on the door shortly before departure shattered the suspense about our travelling companions. Although the brute force of the knock suggested that our intimate space was about to become very cramped, the door creaked open to reveal a frail elderly Vietnamese lady and her petite adult daughter, who were unfailingly polite but clearly eager to maximise the sleeping element of our sleeper car. The train chugged out of the station at the scheduled time of 10pm, and the rhythmic rocking of the carriage prompted all four reading lights to be switched off relatively quickly after departure. I sank into a restful sleep, stirring occasionally if there was a sudden stop or abrupt change to the tempo of the journey, but quickly drifting away again.
Paddy Cooke writing Exploreo stories in his cabin on the sleeper train from Hanoi to Lao Cao in Vietnam. Photograph by Paddy Cooke.
Sustainability challenges for sought-after Sapa
I awoke the next morning to the early morning light peeking through the curtains and the smell of fresh coffee, as a uniformed member of staff offered us complimentary cakes and hot beverages. Sufficiently caffeinated, I padded into the corridor and watched the unfamiliar landscape flash by the window, as towering mountains stood sentinel over small towns and the sun slowly rose above them. The train arrived in Lao Cao roughly on schedule at 6.30am, and we quickly found a shared minivan service to take us the remaining 35km to Sapa for a fare of 150,000 dong (around €5.50) each.
While it would be preferable from both a sustainability and convenience perspective if there was a train that ran directly to Sapa town, there is a plentiful supply of air-conditioned minivans, as well as a daily public bus service, that enables you to share the final leg of your journey with locals and fellow travellers, minimising your individual emissions and reducing your costs in the process.
Streetview of Sapa train station in Vietnam. Photograph by Paddy Cooke.
Although Sapa itself is undoubtedly beautiful, the increasingly popular tourist town offers its own sustainability challenges. Speaking to people from the Hmong and Dao ethnic groups, I heard frequent complaints that many of the hotels, bars, restaurants and tour operators are owned by investors from Hanoi, and the economic benefits of the tourism boom are not widely felt by local people beyond low-wage service jobs. Travellers eager to maximise the positive impact of their visit can seek out authentic tours and homestays that are run by members of the local community.
Sapa’s tourism industry is on its own journey, with almost 2m tourists visiting the formerly sleepy town in the first half of 2024 alone. As that journey continues, tourists can help to make it more inclusive and sustainable through their conscious transport, accommodation and tour choices.
Paddy Cooke overlooking the green landscapes and mountains of Sapa in Vietnam. Photograph by Paddy Cooke.
For international travellers seeking a sustainable experience in south-east Asia, Exploreo lists hundreds of verified Vietnam tours on its website. Working with trusted partners, Exploreo is dedicated to promoting sustainable travel opportunities worldwide, and its listed Vietnam tour options range from the northern mountains of Sapa to the southern beaches of Nha Trang, and everything in between.